Understanding Gold Alloys, True Gold Colors, and Testing
Hello friends,
Every now and then, I get questions about the “true color” of gold, especially white gold, and why testing sometimes gives confusing results. Recently, one of my customers contacted me regarding a ring they ordered some 12 years ago. It was a custom Triforce ring in all 10k white gold. When they had it tested at a shop, the machine said it was tungsten or titanium — which, of course, raised concerns. Let’s clear this up.
Gold Is Rarely Pure
Pure gold (24k) is too soft for everyday jewelry. That’s why we mix it with other metals, creating what’s called an alloy. The karat mark tells you how much pure gold is in the piece:
10k gold = 41.7% pure gold
14k gold = 58.5% pure gold
18k gold = 75% pure gold
The rest is made of metals like silver, copper, nickel, or palladium. These change the strength and color of the jewelry.
Why White Gold Isn’t Pure White
White gold is made by mixing yellow gold with “white” metals such as nickel, silver, or palladium. But since the base is still yellow gold, it naturally has a soft, slightly warm tone.
To make it look bright white, most white gold jewelry is rhodium-plated. Over time, or if it isn’t plated, that gentle yellow tint can show through. This doesn’t mean it isn’t gold — it’s just the true nature of the alloy.
Why Testers Sometimes Get It Wrong
Electronic testers can misread gold alloys, especially lower-karat ones like 10k. The mix of metals can “confuse” the machine, making it think the ring is tungsten, titanium, or something else.
That’s why professional jewelers use several methods to confirm gold:
Acid test – traditional scratch-and-acid method
Density test – weighing the piece against its volume
Magnet test – gold is never magnetic
Stamp inspection – checking for a karat mark (though not all jewelry is stamped, especially custom-made pieces)
No single test is perfect on its own. Using a few together gives the most reliable answer.
Why Some Jewelry Has No Stamp
A missing stamp doesn’t automatically mean a piece isn’t gold. Custom jewelry, very small pieces, or older rings may not carry a hallmark. In my own work, I sometimes leave a piece unstamped if there’s no space or the design takes priority — unless a customer requests it.
The Bottom Line
White gold is real gold. It simply has other metals in it for strength and a lighter color, which can sometimes fool machines. If you’re ever in doubt, the best thing to do is visit a trusted jeweler who can check the piece with more than one test and explain the results
Now you know!